Grič

Rating: 17.5
Author: Gault&Millau

Šentjošt nad Horjulom 24D, 1354 Dobrova-Polhov Gradec, Slovenia

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

6 PHOTOS

Chef: Luka Košir
Cooking: Creative | KIREAJI gastronomy
Style: Elegant

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Nestled among the Polhov Gradec Hills, Grič does not cook for effect, but out of conviction. Chef Luka Košir has built one of Slovenia’s most distinctive culinary stories – with a garden, the forest, nearby farms, and the patience required for fermentation, pickling, drying, and ageing. Here, local ingredients are not a decorative touch on the plate, but the foundation of a sustainable, self-sufficient cuisine. The ageing chamber, which can be explored during a guided tour, reveals Grič’s view of time as a key element of flavour. After the opening greetings from the kitchen, a cold starter with cucumber in the leading role surprises: fresh, crisp, and dried, surrounded by a mussel sauce and blue borage flowers, bringing together the garden and the sea in a single bite. The delicious duck with beetroot and nettle, where the earthy sweetness of the gleaming glaze intertwines with herbal wildness, creates a refined harmony. The evening concludes with a seductive parfait of seasonal figs, carob, and nettle. The entire experience is rounded off by a thoughtfully designed wine pairing and an original, equally complex non-alcoholic pairing, created specifically to engage in dialogue with the dishes. Grič does not follow trends. It follows nature, time, and its own vision. It is precisely through this fidelity to itself that a cuisine emerges which is contemporary yet timeless - and leaves a deep and lasting impression.