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L'avis de Gault&Millau
Kovač restaurant is a venerable lady of Ljubljana. Tradition is felt everywhere: in the dining room, on the garden under the thick linden tree and at the bar. This family restaurant thrives from generation to generation, each one adding a special stone into their mosaic. Don’t feel disappointed when you look at the menu and think you have eaten these dishes many times before – even though this is true, but it is extremely difficult to find a restaurant that makes classic Slovenian dishes so well. The current generation of the Kovač family does not see their role only in modernisation. They cook just like they used to and make no compromise. They strive for perfection. You simply cannot cook bought noodles like they cook their own and when they combine them with sauce that does not taste like truffle sauce but like real truffles, you will see that their dishes are light years apart from their cheaper versions in many other restaurants. Their steak with mushrooms is perfect, too. Nicely marinated beef fillet is quickly grilled and served with porcini mushroom sauce and roasted potatoes, which would have great chances of winning at a competition. If there are still any doubters about the quality of food at Kovač restaurant, they should try the simplest side: French fries. Tasty, thin and heavenly crunchy. Add some apple strudel that tastes just like the one our grandmothers used to make, and lunch is perfect.